best way to change piston rings?

[ugly american]

now that i am thinking about this....i had a problem after the rebuild where my oil light would "flicker" at idle but only after about 15 minutes of running. after an hour of running and going about 30 kph the red light would become more and more lit. it seems like the koppakking may have been the problem all along,as water pressure would increase the light would flicker more and more because the coolant was now leaking into the oil and the water in the oil changes its pressure....hmmmm any thoughts?

[Otje]

If you ordered and received a new headgasket from Geert (http://www.citroworld.com/tableaux/index.php?pageId=19) then it's absolutely O.K.
But - before getting it all fixed - you should clean all (!!!) surfaces (also inside where the liners-feet are put on) (best with "steel-wool") !
Don't use any fluid gasket !
As Jan W. wrote - the "feet" of all four liners should be (carefully, secure and very well !!) cleaned - and provided with "paper" foot-gaskets (seals); there is is just one (standard) size/thickness you should use.
The HY might seem a "rough machine" but a lot of parts needs quite some "fine-tuning" ! No hurry !

Advice: get out the complete motor and read again all advices I gave you earlier in this topic, step by step.
Finally you will succeed !

Gert

[JanW]

.... "paper" foot-gaskets (seals); there is is just one (standard) size/thickness you should use.

Advice: get out the complete motor and read again all advices I gave you earlier in this topic, step by step.
Finally you will succeed !

Gert

For the Traction Avant with the same enine block and liners there is a variety of thickness available to get the liners in the 0,05 - 0,1 mm range

[JanW]

i have many pictures to upload. cilinderkop is off. otje was right, koppakking it was niew!
i checked the clearances for the height of the cilinder they were at .005!

You wrote 0.005 mm. but I presume and hope you meant 0.05 mm.
I dont understand the numbers on yourefeelergauge. On the picture I can't get a good idea of the clearance.
Measuring the clearances has to be done with an absolute straight steel measuring device. It is neccesary to measure each liner at four different locations to be sure it is absolutely vertical. If you use a longer measuring device it is easier to see some deviations

[ugly american]

the feeler gauge is for .051 ! i went around the perimeter of each sleeve and the height was exact for all of them!
when i put the sleeves in i used the paper gaskets with a bit of oil on them ,i got them from geert at citroworld.

[JanW]

So, there are not so many possibilitie left for your problem. The headbolts were more or less loose. That must be the reason for the symptoms.Whats left is to figure out why they were loose.

[Ree]

Did you use the right torque to tighten the bolds? No mistake in kg*m, kN*m, lb*ft, oz*in, or whatever other unit torques can be measured in?

[ugly american]

hoi ree
ja, beide keren. after 500km i loosened them first and retightened them two times (3 and 6) again. that is why its so strange that they loosened. but i may not have cleared out the oil and water completely as JanW pointed out. also i did use "anti seize compound"

[ugly american]

here i am applying the paper gasket to the base of the sleeve with a bit of oil ;

[JanW]

Nice clean sleeves and new gasket ; what a joy.
I cant imagine what will go wrong now after the extensive discussions of last days.
Succes!

[ugly american]

niew cilinderkop onderweg!

[ugly american]

Jan W was right, the bolts had to be cleared out better.. this caused my bolts to loosen. i had to pick out the impacted oil and water from inside the bolt holes, i used a vacuum cleaner and a straw to clean them out ,now i wait for the cilinderkop....

[JanW]

a story:
in my youth, long ago, I rebuild a FIAT 2300 engine; when I fitted the rocker cover I forgot to clean one bolthole from oil. During tightening the bolt the resistance dropped at a sudden and water poured out of the hole. The pressure has become so high that the bottom of the bolthole was blown away into the waterchannel in the aluminium head. Drilling and a bigger bolt did the trick.

[Otje]

What is the condition of the bolts of the "head" (the thread) ? Not rusted or damaged in any way ? (and indeed: first clean everything all the way before re-building !)
About the gasket: I know Geert personally and he only sells good professional parts for HY (all over the world).
I myself wouldn't copy the idea of Jan W.: letting run the motor without cooling water ... as it isn't required.

[Otje]

Oops ... didn't read the very last comments of you both ...
But I just can't stop repeating: clean ! CLEAN !
CLEAN !!
... before putting back parts together.

By the way: this all is becoming a quit expensive adventure by now ...